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Each year, like scores of other mothers the world over, I set out for my kitchen armed with mixing bowls, measuring cups and spoons -- and chocolate chips -- to begin my Christmas cookie baking. The cookies I make for my family are pretty much the same from year to year, but there is always one that's different; the one we bake to give. Before I start, I pull out my favorite cookie cookbooks, old saved editions of Christmas magazines and my family recipes and pore over it all to find just the right cookie for gift-giving.

It's something different each year. One year was a chewy oatmeal chocolate chip, another year was crispy chocolate chunk. Some years we gave more than one type of cookie; and one year it wasn't cookies at all, but beautifully braided and perfectly golden challah bread.

The kids and I search (and drool) for hours on end, discussing cookies until our heads are spinning to come up with a cookie that we think everyone will appreciate and enjoy -- something for moms and dads both -- for seniors and singles, kids and big kids. Once we settle on what we'll make, we take turns mixing up batter and spooning it onto trays (we never, ever make cut cookies -- I think I'm allergic) and watching them bake. Once they're perfectly baked (the odd ones out are all too happily eaten by the kids), cooled and counted, we make bags to deliver them.

I purchase simple paper lunch bags and the kids decorate them with crayons or markers, coloring pictures like stars, ornaments and Christmas trees on the front and back. Once colored, I wrap the cookies in plastic and place them in the bags. We fold over the tops and add a tag, making them ready for delivery to the (hopefully) happy recipient.

This year's cookie has yet to be decided, but this is one we've had this year and it is in the running so far.

24 cookies

1 cup sesame seeds
1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1/2 stick butter
1 egg, slightly beaten
1/2 cup flour
1/4 tsp. salt
1/8 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 325ºF.

Grease cookie sheets -- about 4 -- or wash in between batches and re-grease after washing. In a heavy skillet over medium-high heat, toast the sesame seeds until they are lightly brown.

Mix the brown sugar and butter together until fluffy. Add the egg, flour, salt and baking powder and blend until a soft dough forms. Add the sesame seeds and vanilla and mix well.

Drop teaspoons of dough onto the cookie sheets and leave space between them since they will spread. Bake for 15 minutes, or until brown at the edges. Cool on the sheets briefly (a minute or two), then transfer them to racks and cool completely.